Island Peak Climbing (6189m) - 20 days

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FACTS & INFORMATION

ISLAND PEAK FACTS
TRIP INFORMATION
Location: Khumbu Region (Himalayas)
Departure From: Kathmandu 
Country: Nepal
Duration: 20 Days
Elevation: 6,189 m
Grade: Introductory 2B
Coordinates: 27°55′21″N 86°56′10″E
Best season: April to May & October to November
Culture: Sherpa
Group Size: 2-12 persons per group
Himalayan sights: Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Ama Dablam
Accommodation: Four Star Hotel, Tea Houses and Camping
First Successful Ascent: 1953 (C. Evans, A. Gregory, C. Wylie, Tensing Norgay and 7 Sherpas)
Meals: B, L, D during trekking and climbing
Nepalese Name: Imja TseTransportation: Car / Domestic Flights

Island Peak is locally known as “Imja Tse” in Nepal. This peak climbing expedition offers one of the most impressive views of the Khumbu region, including Mt. Everest.

With an elevation of 6189m, Island Peak is considered a 'trekking peak' and requires a short acclimatization period. However, the impressive, highly glaciated west face rises from the Lhotse Glacier and isn't easy to climb. Therefore, previous mountaineering experience is required for this trekking peak expedition. Nevertheless, the reward is priceless and the views from the summit will take your breath away.

Our peak climbing expeditions are operated by a group of Sherpas. They are friendly, strong, compassionate, and loyal people. They have years of peak climbing experience and are highly skilled in all aspects of Nepal Mountaineering (Nepal Government License, International Federation of Mountain Guide Association, Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates). They climb eight-thousanders season after season and will make sure that everything is under control while climbing the technical peaks.

Day 01. Welcome to Nepal

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, our friendly representative will be waiting for you at the airport with a sign displaying your name. He will then drive you to your hotel. 

Depending on your time of arrival, you are free to relax or explore the city.

Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 02. Kathmandu sightseeing and peak climbing briefing

After breakfast, we will take you on a sightseeing tour in Kathmandu. We will visit:

Pashupatinath Temple, a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus. Pashupatinath is one of the four most important religious sites in Asia for devotees of Lord Shiva. Devotees are regularly taking ritual baths in the holy Bagmati river. You will see a wide range of very interesting cultural activities. We will also meet many Hindu Holy Men (also known as Sadhus). 

Boudhanath Stupa. Boudhanath is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world and a very important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Walk clockwise around the stupa, enjoy the mystical atmosphere, encounter the Buddhist monks and take lots of pictures under the colorful prayer flags. 

Basantapur Durbar Square (Kathmandu Durbar Square).

After the sightseeing tour, we will conduct a pre-departure briefing. 


Meals: Breakfast.

Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 03. Scenic Flight to Lukla (30 min flight)* / Trek to Phakding (≈ 3 hours)

After breakfast, we will drive to the Kathmandu Airport for a 30-minute scenic flight to Lukla. Our guide will introduce you to the porters. We will start our trek to Phakding, following the Dudh Koshi River.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
*The mountain weather in Nepal is always unpredictable and the flights from/to Lukla may be delayed or canceled due to the bad weather.  We advise allowing 2 to 3 extra days should our flights from/to Lukla be cancelled or delayed due to bad weather.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 04. Phakding to Namche Bazaar: 5-6 hours trek

We will continue our trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar following the Dudh Koshi River. We will cross the river several times. We will stop for lunch at Jorsale. We will continue our trek through the forest until we reach the beautiful and unique Namche Bazaar. We will pass the plateau where the Saturday bazaar is held and enter the village. Facing the Dudh Koshi River, Namche Bazaar is surrounded by mountain ranges. The village is a central hub for mountaineers and trekkers from all over the world, and mountain climbing equipment can be easily purchased there.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 05. Namche Bazaar - Acclimatization day
Namche Bazaar is tucked between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu region and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops, and souvenir shops. It is an ideal place to spend a day for acclimatization to high altitude before heading towards Tyangboche. During the acclimatization day, we will walk up to the Khumjung village and we will stop at the “Everest View Hotel”, one of the highest hotels in the world, where you can admire the mesmerizing view of Mount Everest and the surrounding Himalayas. We will visit an old monastery in Khumjung, and then we will return to Namche Bazaar.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 06. Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche: 4-5 hours trek

After breakfast, we will start our trek while enjoying an excellent panorama of Thamserku, Kantega, and Kusum Khangaru. After few hours, we will go down to the river and arrive at Phunki Tenga. Then, we will climb through the Rhododendron forest to Tyangboche. We will visit the monastery (the largest Gompa in the Khumbu region).


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 07. Tyangboche to Dingboche: 4-5 hours trek
After a filling breakfast, we will trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche. We will descend through the rhododendron forest and cross a suspension bridge at Imja Khola. We will head towards Dingboche. Along the way, you will have stunning views of the Himalayan range.  

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 08. Dingboche to Dughla: 2-3 hours trek
We will head towards Dughla. It will be a short trek today (2-3 hours) but the Himalayan Rescue Association advises trekkers to be conservative with acclimatization and stay one night at Dughla in order to prevent  altitude sickness issues.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 09. Dughla to Lobuche to Chhukung via Kongma La Pass: 8-9 hours trek
We will trek from Dughla to Chhukung via Kongma La Pass.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 10. Acclimatization & training in Chhukung

Today, we will climb to Chhukung Ri and then trek back to Chhukung.


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 11. Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp: 4 hours

Trek at a leisurely pace and marvel at the unique scenery around you. 


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 12. Pre-Climb training at Island Peak Base Camp

Training: Peak climbing techniques and the proper way of using climbing gear such as ice axes, climbing boots and crampons, harnesses, ascenders, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. 


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 13. Island Peak Summit: 10-12 hours

Waking up around 1 am. The guides will fix ropes when required. A steep snow slope leads us onto the summit ridge. Both fixed and man ropes will be used during the climb for safety. There are two newly formed crevasses which are approximately 3 and 4 meters long. We will be using ladders to cross them.


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 14. Reserve Day for Contingency 


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 15. Island Peak Base Camp to Chhukung: 2- 3 hours trek

We will trek back to Chhukung. 


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 16. Chhukung to Pangboche: 3 hours trek
We will walk down for approximately 3 hours to reach Pangboche. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


Day 17. Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: 5 hours trek
Morning sunrise view over the Himalayas. After a hot breakfast, we will start our trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 18. Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 5-6 hours trek

We will trek back to Lukla. The trekking will be pleasant, except for few short uphill climbs. 


Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 19. Flight back to Kathmandu*, sightseeing, shopping and farewell dinner

After breakfast, we will fly from Lukla to Kathmandu. You will have some free time to explore the city and do some shopping. 

In the evening, we will have our farewell dinner at a local restaurant, where you will also enjoy a Nepali Cultural dance show.

Meals: Breakfast & Farewell dinner.
Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.

*The mountain weather in Nepal is always unpredictable and the flights from/to Lukla may be delayed or canceled due to the bad weather. We advise allowing 2 to 3 extra days should our flights from/to Lukla be cancelled or delayed due to bad weather.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Day 20. Final departure


Meals: Breakfast.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           



Please note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline; local conditions and weather may necessitate slight itinerary variations. Because of the nature of the expedition, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan (and add contingency days) to maximize our chances of summit success.

FOR CLIMBING

  • Climbing harness
  • Belay device
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • Light ice axe with leash
  • Strong crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Ascender
  • Locking carabiners
  • Non locking carabiners
  • Prusik loops
  • Slings
  • Helmet


LOWER BODY

  • Walking shorts
  • Trekking pants
  • Lightweight thermal pants
  • Expedition weight thermal pants
  • Polar fleece trousers
  • Snow Pants (water resistant with full side zips)
  • Superior down pants
  • Expedition down suit for the summit day


FEET 

  • Mountaineering boots
  • Walking boots with good ankle support
  • Running shoes
  • Down booties
  • Pairs of med-heavy wool socks
  • Pairs of liner socks
  • Vapor barrier socks
  • Lightweight socks


UPPER BODY

  • Cotton t-shirts
  • Polypropylene t-shirts
  • Polar fleece pullovers
  • Softshell jacket
  • Alpine climbing jacket (waterproof, windproof and breathable)
  • Lightweight down jacket 
  • Expedition down parka with hood


HANDS

  • Lightweight gloves
  • Climbing gloves
  • Mitts 
  • Hand warmers


HEAD

  • Warm wool hat
  • Balaclava
  • Ski goggles
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Neck gaiter
  • Scarf


SLEEPING (INCLUDED IN YOUR PACKAGE)

  • Sleeping bag for basecamp (0°C to -10°C)
  • Closed cell foam mats 


RUCKSACK AND BAGS

  • Rucksack (50-70 litres)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover
  • Day pack
  • 2 large (120L) duffle kit bags 
  • Padlocks  
  • Water bottles 
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Folding knife
  • Passport, extra passport photos, flight tickets
  • Separate photocopies of passport 
  • Proof of insurance


MEDICAL & OTHERS

  • First-aid kit (basic) with aspirin, first-aid tape, and band aids. Your Sherpa guide will have an Alpine first aid kit
  • Sunscreen
  • Anti-diarrhea medicines
  • Anti-headache medicines
  • Cough and/or cold medicines
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills 
  • Water purification tablets
  • Earplugs
  • Lip sunscreen
  • Anti-mosquito spray
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Soap and small towel
  • Pee bottle (pee funnel for women)
  • Garbage bags

*THIS LIST IS NOT EXHAUSTIVE. 


What’s included

  • Pre-departure support.
  • Airport pick up & drop off (Tribhuvan International Airport).
  • 3 Nights 4-Star Hotel on twin sharing basis in Kathmandu.
  • Teahouses and camping during the trek and the climb.
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude climbing guides & trekking guides during the trekking and climbing period (6 members : 1 climbing guide + 1 trekking guide ratio).
  • Flight tickets: Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu.
  • Land transportation.
  • All trekking and mountaineering equipment such as kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tent, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for Base Camp. 
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and man ropes, ice screws, etc.). 
  • Sleeping bag and closed cell foam mats as mentioned in the packing list (which need to be returned after the expedition).
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunches and Dinners with tea/ coffee) during the trekking and climbing period.
  • Per person: 20kg baggage allowance during trekking (Porter/Yak).
  • Daily Weather Report Services. 
  • Trekking Permit.
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Island Peak.
  • Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurances for all involved staff in trekking and expedition.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpas and cooks.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone available for members with the extra cost of US$3 per minute call.
  • High altitude tent (per 2 members).
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  • Required fixed and dynamic ropes during climbing period.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guides, cooks and staff.
  • Trekking and Climbing map of Island Peak. 
  • Cooking gas, stove will be provided at basecamp for cooking food, boiling water.
  • Service charge and Government Taxes.
  • Complete pre-departure information.
  • Visa extension procedure service (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with local culture show in Kathmandu.


What’s NOT included

  • International flights.
  • EMERGENCY EVACUATION EXPENSES & insurance of any kind. It is strongly recommended that you subscribe a proper travel insurance policy that covers illness, medical emergencies, trip cancellation, etc.
  • Airport taxes/ visa fees.
  • Lunches and Dinners during your stay in Kathmandu (except the farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutri-bars during the trekking period.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Extra transportation. 
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15kg (10 kg luggage check-in + 5kg hand carry), cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg).
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation.
  • Helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera or walkie-talkies).
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gear.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Anything else not specified in the 'what's included' section above.

Accommodation: 

Kathmandu: 4 Star Hotel. 

During trek & peak climbing: Tea houses and camping.


Meals: 

Kathmandu: Breakfasts & Farewell Dinner. 

During the trek: Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners.

During the climb: 3 hot meals and plenty of drinks per day.


Bring your daily snacks, energy foods and dehydrated meals for the summit attempt. 

Training for peak climbing requires a focused and balanced routine program, and the ability to push yourself physically. Training your body is as important as training your mind.


Experience:

Previous winter mountaineering experience necessary.  


Health:

Good level of fitness.

Very fit and active walker-climber in good health.


Training Preparation:

  • Training plan: hiking with backpack 2 to 4 times a week (2 to 6 hours per session).
  • Indoor (weight training, swimming, …) and outdoor (running, cycling, …) workouts.

Please note: Before your arrival, we will send you a complete detailed brochure regarding Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and how to prevent it. Please read this brochure carefully.

Our local trekking guides are highly experienced in preventing, recognizing and treating altitude sickness. They will monitor your health closely during your trek and expedition. A proper acclimatization is not only essential but also a necessary life-saving measure.


You are required as a condition of booking to have an adequate travel insurance.
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