Ama Dablam Summit Expedition (6856M) - 32 DAYS

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FACTS & INFORMATION

AMA DABLAM FACTS
TRIP INFORMATION
Location: Khumbu Region (Himalayas)
Departure From: Kathmandu 
Country: Nepal
Duration: 32 Days
Elevation: 6,856 m
Grade: 5D
Coordinates: 27°51'40″N 86°51′40″E
Best season: April to May & October to November
Culture: Sherpa
Group Size: 2-12 persons per group
Himalayan sights: Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Pumori
Accommodation: Four Star Hotel, Tea Houses and Camping
First Successful Ascent: 1961 (B. Bishop, M. Gill, W. Romanes, M. Ward)
Meals: Full board (B, L, D) during trekking and climbing
Name Meaning: Mother's necklaceTransportation: Car / Domestic Flights

Ama Dablam is undeniably one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, and often regarded as one of the best mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas. 

Ama Dablam has always fascinated thousands of climbers from all over the world, and the expedition offers an unforgettable journey into the Everest region with a truly spectacular sceneryNevertheless, summiting Ama Dablam has always been a challenge and the expedition requires an excellent level of physical fitness, a strong mountaineering experience and good technical skills on steep ice, rock and snow. 

Our climbing expeditions are operated by a group of Sherpas. They are friendly, strong, compassionate, and loyal people. They have years of climbing experience and are highly skilled in all aspects of Nepal Mountaineering (Nepal Government License, International Federation of Mountain Guide Association, Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates). They climb eight-thousanders season after season and will make sure that everything is under control while climbing the technical peaks.

Day 01. Arrival at Kathmandu Airport

Meals: Welcome Dinner.
Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.

Days 02-03. Preparation & expedition briefing

Meals: Breakfasts.

Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.


Day 04. Scenic Flight to Lukla (30 min flight) / Trek to Monjo (≈ 5 hours trek)

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

Day 05. Monjo to Namche Bazaar: ≈ 3-4 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

Day 06. Namche Bazaar - Acclimatization day
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

Day 07. Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche: ≈ 4-5 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.

Day 08. Tyangboche to Pangboche: ≈ 2-3 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.


Day 09. Pangboche - Acclimatization day

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.

Day 10. Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp: ≈ 3 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.

Days 11-12. Acclimatization & Climbing training
Meals: Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners.
Accommodation: Camping.

Days 13-26. Climbing period for Ama Dablam

Meals: Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners.
Accommodation: Camping.

Day 27. Contingency Day
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Dinner.
Accommodation: Camping.

Day 28. Ama Dablam Base Camp to Pangboche: ≈ 2 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house or camping.

Day 29. Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: ≈ 5 hours trek
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.


Day 30. Namche Bazaar to Lukla: ≈ 5-6 hours trek

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Accommodation: Tea house.


Day 31. Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, sightseeing, shopping and farewell dinner

Meals: Breakfast & Farewell dinner.
Accommodation: 4-Star Hotel.


Day 32. Final departure

Meals: Breakfast.


Please note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline; local conditions and weather may necessitate slight itinerary variations. Because of the nature of the expedition, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan (and add contingency days) to maximize our chances of summit success.

Need more details? Please, contact us at [email protected] for a detailed itinerary.

FOR CLIMBING

  • Climbing harness
  • Belay device
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • Light ice axe with leash
  • Strong crampons with anti-balling plates
  • Ascender
  • Locking carabiners
  • Non locking carabiners
  • Prusik loops
  • Slings
  • Helmet


LOWER BODY

  • Walking shorts
  • Trekking pants
  • Lightweight thermal pants
  • Expedition weight thermal pants
  • Polar fleece trousers
  • Snow Pants (water resistant with full side zips)
  • Superior down pants
  • Expedition down suit


FEET 

  • Mountaineering boots
  • Walking boots with good ankle support
  • Running shoes
  • Down booties
  • Pairs of med-heavy wool socks
  • Pairs of liner socks
  • Vapor barrier socks
  • Lightweight socks
  • Feet warmers


UPPER BODY

  • Cotton t-shirts
  • Polypropylene t-shirts
  • Polar fleece pullovers
  • Softshell jacket
  • Alpine climbing jacket (waterproof, windproof and breathable)
  • Lightweight down jacket 
  • Expedition down parka with hood


HANDS

  • Lightweight gloves
  • Climbing gloves
  • Mitts 
  • Hand warmers


HEAD

  • Warm wool hat
  • Balaclava
  • Ski goggles
  • Face mask
  • Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
  • Neck gaiter
  • Scarf


SLEEPING (INCLUDED IN YOUR PACKAGE)

  • Sleeping bag for basecamp (0° to -10°C)
  • Sleeping bag for high altitude (-20° to -30°C)
  • Closed cell foam mats 


RUCKSACK AND BAGS

  • Rucksack (50-70 litres)
  • Waterproof rucksack cover
  • Day pack
  • 2 large (120L) duffle kit bags 
  • Padlocks  
  • Water bottles 
  • Compass
  • Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
  • Folding knife
  • Passport, extra passport photos, flight tickets
  • Separate photocopies of passport 
  • Proof of insurance


MEDICAL & OTHERS

  • First-aid kit (basic) with aspirin, first-aid tape, and band aids (your Sherpa guide will have an Alpine first aid kit)
  • Sunscreen
  • Anti-diarrhea medicines
  • Anti-headache medicines
  • Cough and/or cold medicines
  • Anti-altitude sickness pills 
  • Water purification tablets
  • Earplugs
  • Lip sunscreen
  • Anti-mosquito spray
  • Toothpaste/brush
  • Soap and small towel
  • Pee bottle (pee funnel for women)
  • Garbage bags

*THIS LIST IS NOT EXHAUSTIVE. 

SAFETY, SHERPAS & EQUIPMENT TRANSPORT 


1 Sherpa guide for 2 climbers (1 Sherpa : 2 Members ratio): You will have an experienced, well-trained, government licensed Sherpa with a solid 8000m experience (several times Everest summiteer/ several times Ama Dablam summiteer) who will climb and camp with you during the expedition. 


1 guide : 4 climbers ratio: an experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking period.


Group Equipment: High-quality equipment, protection (ropes, ice, rock, and snow anchors), high-altitude tents (individual tent per member in Base Camp), shower and toilet tents, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkies, medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen and all the necessary gear. 



What’s included

  • Airport Pick up / Drop off (Tribhuvan International Airport).
  • 4 Nights 4-Star Hotel on twin sharing basis in Kathmandu. Teahouses and camping during the trek and the climb.
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guides during the trekking period (1 guide: 4 climbers ratio).
  • One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and several times Everest Summiteer/ several times Ama Dablam Summiteer Climber/Expedition Guide per 2 clients (1 Sherpa: 2 climbers ratio).
  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guides, liaison officer and kitchen staff. 
  • All trekking and mountaineering equipment such as kitchen tents, dining tents, toilet tent, shower tent, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and man ropes, ice screws, etc.). 
  • Sleeping bags and closed cell foam mats as mentioned in the packing list (which need to be returned after the expedition).
  • Cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Breakfasts, Welcome dinner and Farewell dinner in Kathmandu as per itinerary.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners) during the trekking period.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners) during the climbing period.
  • All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition for both members and crew.
  • Per person: 40kg baggage allowance during trekking (Porters/mules).
  • Daily Weather Report Services. 
  • Trekking Permit.
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Ama Dablam.
  • Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurances for all involved staff in trekking and expedition.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen boys.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officer.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone available for members with the extra cost of US$3 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp.
  • Required fixed and dynamic ropes during climbing period.
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  • Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
  • Emergency extra Oxygen, masks and regulators provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge.
  • Sherpas tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guides, cooks and staff.
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Trekking and Climbing map of Ama Dablam. 
  • Cooking gas, stove will be provided at camps for cooking food, boiling water.
  • Generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
  • Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu.
  • Service charge and Government Taxes.
  • Complete pre-departure information.
  • Visa extension procedure service (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with local culture show in Kathmandu.


What’s NOT included

  • International flights.
  • EMERGENCY EVACUATION EXPENSES & insurance of any kind. It is strongly recommended that you subscribe a proper travel insurance policy that covers illness, medical emergencies, trip cancellation, etc.
  • Airport taxes/ visa fees.
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutri-bars during the trekking.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Extra transportation.
  • Excess baggage charges (domestic flights).
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation.
  • Helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera or walkie-talkies).
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gear.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules.
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Anything else not specified in the 'what's included' section above.

Accommodation: 

Kathmandu: 4-Star Hotel. 

During trek & expedition: Tea houses and camping.


Meals: 

Kathmandu: Breakfasts, Welcome dinner & Farewell dinner. 

During the trek: Breakfasts, Lunches & Dinners.

Basecamp, Camp 1 & Camp 2: 3 hot meals and plenty of drinks per day.

During the ascent: 3 hot meals per day. High altitude stove and fuel canisters will be provided.


Bring your daily snacks, energy foods and dehydrated meals for the summit attempt. 

Training for a summit expedition requires a focused and balanced routine program, and the ability to push yourself physically. Training your body is as important as training your mind. A summit expedition requires mental discipline and physical endurance, determination, the ability to manage your emotions and to cope with weeks of isolation.


Experience:

Prior high altitude climbing experience (up to 6000m) is required.


Health:

  • Must be a very fit and active winter climber in good health.
  • Medical certificate in order to obtain the necessary permission, and necessary medications.


Training Preparation:

  • Training plan: hiking with rucksack 3 to 4 times a week (3 to 8 hours per session).
  • Well-balanced diet. 
  • Indoor (weight training, swimming, …) and outdoor (running, cycling, …) workouts. 
  • In Kathmandu and base camp, you will receive a specific training program (climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, abseiling, etc.).


Please note: Before your arrival, we will send you a complete detailed brochure regarding Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and how to prevent it. Please read this brochure carefully.

Our local trekking guides and Sherpas are highly experienced in preventing, recognizing and treating altitude sickness. They will monitor your health closely during your trek and expedition. A proper acclimatization is not only essential but also a necessary life-saving measure.


You are required as a condition of booking to have an adequate travel insurance.


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